Using Magnets To Instantly Age Your Wine – Fact or Fiction?

A bunch of weeks ago I asked my readers what their opinion was on the type of BBQ they prefer to use (propane, natural gas, wood or charcoal) and I was really surprised by the reaction.  There are definitely a lot of people out there who are passionate about their BBQs!

Here’s another one that I’m sure will spark some debate.

This past week I received an email from a reader who told me about some products you could buy that would age your wine 2 or 3 years within 30 minutes using magnets.

[amazon-slideshow align="right" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="250" width="250"]138659cd-b99c-4dee-ae3e-5a315ef7b7c7[/amazon-slideshow]One such product is called “The Perfect Sommelier”, which consists of a decorative coaster that you would sit your bottle of wine on with magnets (presumably) inside the base.

Douglas Dubin, from The Perfect Sommelier, explains how it works:

“According to modern physics when you create a “True Magnetic Field” as we have within the confines of the Base and Top Magnets, a natural phenomenon a Flux Path is created. Within the Flux Path the Electrically Charged Molecules move imperceptibly along the path creating a bond and allowing the tannic molecules to lengthen as they would naturally when the bottle is laid down in a cellar or cave for 4-10 years. When tannins are big and aggressive they mask the fruit, by smoothing or maturing the tannins they move away from the fruit which allows the fruit to open up.

Finally all the rest of the molecules that have come out of alignment move back into alignment and rebalance allowing the bouquet to open up. You wind up with a wine that is less acidic, fruitier and has a bigger nose.”

I will freely admit that I’m a bit skeptical so decided to do some research online. It’s fair to say that there are some who truly believe it and others who think it’s a bunch of “hoey”.

I personally haven’t tried it but it has certainly peeked my interest and am curious to hear what you think.

If you’re interested in learning more about this here are some resources you can check out:

• An online discussion about wine magnets on “Drinks Planet”
• Vino Magnetism
• Magnetic Magic or Mystic Myth? Does the Perfect Sommelier Age Wine?
• What is science? First, magnetise your wine …
• 30 Second Wine Advisor: Wine magnets and snake oil
• Wine Cellar Express
• The Wine Clip (includes some TV reporters who tested it out)

Personally I’m not a big fan of “silver bullets” that promise to short-cut proven processes and therefore I’m not going to rush out and buy one of these gizmos.

That doesn’t mean though I wouldn’t be adverse to doing a taste test if the opportunity presented itself!

Can I Use a Plastic Water Jug As A Secondary?

Here’s a very interesting question I received via my blog this week:

“Can I use the plastic 5-gallon carboys that I have water delivered in for starting the secondary fermentation? What I would like to do is start some strawberry and blueberry wine when the fruits are in season – which is when we are here in Maine.

I would like to get the secondary fermentation started here and then take the carboys home where I can finish the process and bottle it. My concern is if these water bottles will leave a taste in the wine.”

Here’s how I answered:

Great question!

As long as the water bottle is made of PET then you should be good to go.

I actually own a plastic carboy and there’s no issue with a plastic taste being transferred. I wrote an article about it on my blog called “Winemaking Designer Carboys” if you’re interested.

I’m curious what you think about using plastic vs. glass carboys and so reply to this blog post and let me know!

How To Make Wine: Different Ways To Degas Your Wine

One of the most important aspects of wine making is degassing once the fermentation is completed and this blog post will show you a variety of videos which demonstrate different ways of accomplishing this.

This is the part in any wine kit instructions where they say to “stir vigorously” (with a spoon or drill attachment) for a minimum of 2 minutes so that you can flatten your wine out.  If you’ve ever tasted homemade wine that hasn’t been properly degassed you can tell as it has a bit of a “fizzy” taste to it and it just doesn’t taste very good.

Video 1: The Basics of Wine Degassing

The other issue you’ll have if you don’t degass your wine properly is that your cork could pop out of the bottle or, worse case, your bottle could potentially explode due to the build up in pressure in the bottle.

In An Ingenius Way To Degas Your Wine I showed how you could use a wine vacuum pump (i.e. what you could use to suck out the air in a half-drunk bottle of wine) to degas your wine.

Video 2: Using A Wine Vacuum Pump To Degas Your Wine

I use this method with every batch of wine I’ve made since I discovered it, and the results have been fantastic! The biggest thing you’ll notice is that your wine comes out nice and silky smooth.

The brand of wine vacuum I used in the above video is “Snail”. You can find it by going here (it’s about 2/3rds of the way down the page).

 

Here are a few other videos that I found on YouTube that demonstrate different ways you can degas your wine. Hopefully one or more of them peaks your interest!

Video 3: Degassing Your Wine Using Your Washing Machine

Video 4: Degassing Your Wine Using A FoodSaver

Other methods I’ve heard used to degas your wine include:

1. The “Manual Method” where you grab your carboy and shake it with your hands (although this sounds really messy if the airlock pops off).
2. The “Sparging Method” where you place an air stone with a tube attached to it on the bottom of your carboy and pump nitrogen through it. The nitogren is an inert gas and will force the carbon dioxide out of your wine. This is a bit more involved (and expensive) and is one I’ve never tried myself.

It ultimately doesn’t matter which method you use so long as you do it!

If you have a different method you use please let me know by leaving a comment below!

To your wine making success,

- Scott “The Wine Making Guy”

Great Idea For Labelling Your Carboy During Wine Making

Here’s how the author did it:

Recently, I have had a lot of request about where I got the signs I have on my carboys.   Well I just took some Mardi Gras beads (everyone has some of these around the house) and cut them to about 10 inches.   Then I cut up some thin plastic, which I believe was excess bathroom shower liner I had cut off some time ago.  I made small squares for the labels, and glued the Mardi Gras beads to them.   Then I just used my label maker for the wine type and year.   I kept mine in separate lines so I can don’t have to print out full labels each time.  I’ll just keep them from each type and change the year with each new batch.   If you’ve got a good idea, be sure to mention it in the wine forum where everyone is constantly learning.

I’m typically not as fancy as I write info onto either masking tape or a Post-It Note (see below) and then place that on the carboy

Masking Tape Carboy Label

 

For me these are more functional (and easy to do) but I thought the above idea was pretty cool nonetheless.

How do you tag your carboys when aging your wine?

- Scott “The Wine Making Guy”

How Do You Clean Your Wine Making Equipment?

I was asked the other day how I clean my wine making equipment so I thought this would be a good topic for my “question of the week” as I’m sure there are others curious as well. So here’s what I do to keep the germs off my winemaking gear:

I call it the “Double Whammy”!

Step 1 – Pink Solution (Sani Brew)

It’s comes as chlorinated pink powder that you dissolve 3.5 g per litre of cold water (5 tsp. per gal). Soak stained equipment up to 48 hours. Rinse thoroughly with hot water. Because it’s a chlorine product you want to be careful with stainless steel equipment and you’ll also want to make sure you rinse really well. I like soaking my wine and beer bottles in it for several days to clean all the “gunge” out of them, especially if they’re used. It’s also great for removing stains from your equipment (especially your primary).

Step 2 – MetaBisulphite spray down.

This is a good sanitizer as well but doesn’t clean like in step one hence why I do both.  I use a spray bottle like the one below as it really helps get you good coverage.  The nice thing about the MetaBisulphite solution is that it is reusable for up to a month.  Note that it has a strong sulphur smell so use it in a well ventilated area so you don’t irritate your lungs.  I typically rinse my equipment after using it but some people just let their equipment drip dry as it won’t be a bad thing if it gets into your wine as it will help prevent oxidization.

Anyhoo, that’s basically what I do to clean my equipment.

Oh … one thing you might want to do is go to your hardware store and invest in a short garden hose that you can attach to a tap as this’ll help you clean your primary and secondary.  I was able to pick one up that was about 6 feet long with one end open and the other with the tap connector. I’ve used it for years and it makes things really easy. Make sure that you clean this out first (i.e. in step 1) so that you clean out any bugs that might be lurking in it as well.

If you’re interested in some more details on how to clean your equipment here are two good resources for you:

• http://www.clickabrew.com/cn-0903.html (scroll down the page and look for “Cleaning & Sanitising your Winemaking Equipment”
• http://www.eckraus.com/Cleaners_-and-_Sanitizers.html (an online store where you can buy some of the sanitizers)
• http://www.grapestompers.com/sanitation.asp (lot’s of great detail here)

If you have any interesting cleaning methods please share below!

- Scott

Can You Put Hot Water In Wine Bottles?

Here’s a question I received the other day that I found very interesting and am interested to hear how you would respond:

Hoping you can help me. I’ve been making grape juice for quite some time and have used your regular mason jars to store the juice and poured directly in the jar while hot then sealed with the jar lid.

I would like to store the juice in some type of wine bottle using cork or bartop finish. My question is, will I have an issue pouring hot grape juice in the wine bottle then use the cork or bartop finish to seal it. Usually when I pour the grape juice in the mason jar I’ll hear the pop sound of the lid then I know the bottle is sealed and can be preserved.

I hope I’ve made sense.

Thanks,

M.

My understanding is that carboys and wine bottles aren’t tempered and therefore not heat resistant. This means that the glass can potentially crack or shatter (and hurt anyone close by) when hot water is added to them.

I’ve also mentioned in earlier posts that you can now buy clear plastic carboys (see my “Winemaking Designer Carboys” post) and these you definitely need to be careful that you don’t add boiling water to them to clean them out.

Here’s proof from one of my readers:

So what do you think? Would you add hot water/juice to your wine bottles or carboy?

I’m curious to hear what your thoughts are so please leave a comment!

- Scott “The Wine Making Guy”

My Wine Is Too Gassy – Help!

I received the following email this week from J.V.:

Scott,

I recently bottled my wine after 28 days of secondary fermentation. The wine was clear of sediment and had a good underlining taste, however it was very gassy. Can you tell what I did wrong? Or should it be like this?

Thanks – JV

Here’s my response:

Hey Jason,

Good question. If you find that your wine is very gassy then my question to you is what you did to degas your wine after the secondary fermentation was finished and you moved to the clarifying and stabilizing stage. This is typically when you and a clearing agent and sorbate to kill the fermentation. This is also when you should be stirring for several minutes to get all of the carbon dioxide out of your wine must. You can either use a spoon or a “Fizzex”, which is a tool you attach to your drill. It looks like this.

One step I also use is introducing a vacuum in the carboy and sucking out the CO2 that way. I have found that it works really well and really smooths out your wine.

I also did a video on this method that is worth checking out:

At this point if you find that your wine is too gassy (and you’re not enjoying it) then you might considering dumping it all out and degassing it, let it sit then re-bottle. Ultimately you need to let it go flat in the same way you would if you left a bottle of pop/soda over night and let all of the CO2 escape.

Make sense?

- Scott

If you have some advice for J.V. feel free to include it in your comments below!

My First Impressions Of The Tap-A-Draft Kegging System

I mentioned in my email last week that I purchased one of those Tap-A-Draft kegging systems for carbonating beer and wine coolers and here are some initial thoughts:

1) I like how it fits nicely in my fridge – not quite like a beer tap at the pub but close enough!

2) I’m a little disappointed in the level of carbonation that you get with the system to be perfectly honest. I like a little more “bubbly” in my beer and to me it tastes a little flat.

3) Each bottle contains the equivalent of 15 bottles of beer so I only have a pint once in a while. You need to add a new CO2 cartridge to dispense the beer and one thing I’ve noticed is that if you let the beer sit in the fridge for a few days between pours you lose the pressure and need to add another CO2 cartridge (this makes sense as the CO2 will dissolve into the beer). At $13 per package of 8 or so cartridges it gets pretty expensive as you are constantly putting in new cartridges.

To increase the level of carbonation in your beer you can “prime” the container by adding some sugar (i.e. as you would if carbonating your beer in the bottle), which is what I plan on trying next. Note that you need a special cap for the plastic bottle, which has a one-way valve so that the bottle doesn’t “blow up” if the pressure gets to be too large.

4) I actually did a taste test this evening where I tried the bottled version of the beer against the Tap-A-Draft version and I noticed that the bottled version had much nicer, creamy taste then the Tap-A-Draft, tasted a little more complex and definitely had more “fizz” to it.

(Note that I did enjoy both so perhaps I’m just being overly picky …

Anyhoo, just some quick thoughts for you on how things are going with my new “toy”as I know some of you were asking me what I thought about it. I’ll be blogging more about it in the coming weeks and would be interested in hearing what your comments are especially if you have one.

According to the place I bought it from they can’t seem to keep them in stock as they’re so popular so I’m definitely not the only one who owns one !

So stay tuned for more …

- Scott

Here are some other discussions on the Web about the Tap-A-Draft that I have found:

Should i get the Tap A Draft system? - Im not ready for a full keg system yet but getting tired of bottling. -Yes, spend the $65 or so to forget bottling, its awesome. -No, its not worth it. -I would get it but wouldent use it strictly for everything(all batches, all amount) Tap-A-Draft question - Don’t you have to use priming sugar to carbonate with the tap a draft systems? I read and old post that said something like “unless you can force carbonate, like in a tap-a-draft system…” The CO2 just forces the beer out of the bottle … Should i get a Tap A Draft sytem? - Posted: by bkov33 (9 hours ago)

How To Make Wine: Easiest Way To Sink A Grape Skin Bag

When you make wine using either a premium wine kit or from scratch, you often add grape/fruit skins to your wine must during the primary fermentation. This winemaking video shows you the best way to ensure you get the most out of your fruit skins.

Brewing Beer Demands Higher Cleaning Standards

Did you know that sulphite is not strong enough to kill bacteria and therefore is of no use in beermaking?

I typically make wine and therefore use a metabisulphite solution to clean my equipment and to date have had no issues with my batches. I should point out though that I’m pretty fussy about keeping my equipment clean, especially when storing it between batches!

I was surprised to read in the cleaning instructions that came with the Brew House beer kit from RJ Spagnols that sulphites shouldn’t be used to clean beer making equipment as they can’t kill bacteria, which will alter the taste of the beer and also opens up the possibility that you’ll get sick from your beer – not good!

I have to say though that I was quite impressed with the cleaning instructions that they included with the kit as they give four cleaning options: Trisodium Phosphate (aka T.S.P. – i.e. the stuff you clean your walls with before you paint them), Diversol (aka Sani-Brew – i.e. the pink solution commonly used in beer/wine making), Bleach (i.e. aka the stuff you use to whiten your shirts) and Iodophor (aka Iodine).

My personal preference is Sani-Brew as it has bleach in it (so I know it’s a good disinfectant) and works well when removing stains from your equipment (especially for your primary – great when you are brewing several different types of wines/beers out of the same container).

Here’s a the page on RJ Spagnol’s website that goes into greater detail about cleaning your equipment as well as the differences between four types of cleansers that they recommend. Definitely worth checking out (even if to serve as a refresher):

www.RJSjspagnols.com/resource_view.asp?HandoutID=44

I realize that cleaning your equipment is one of the least favourite jobs when making beer or wine but consider this interesting thought from RJ Spagnols:

“If you get tired of scrubbing and sanitizing, remember: lapses in sanitation are responsible for 90% of all homebrewing failures. You can avoid them.”

- Scott “The Wine Making Guy”

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